The C & O Trail (Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park) runs 184.5 miles from Georgetown, D.C., to Cumberland, Maryland. The historical canal was built along the Potomac River to move goods both ways and avoid portages (see Sunday’s hike last week at Great Falls…), but the train eventually took over once it was finished.
It is a wide, flat trail that barely gains any elevation from start to finish. Walking, biking, and dog-friendly. It would be a rail-to-trail had it had a train on it, instead of beasts of burden. It also carries the name of US Bicycle Route 50.
The oldest son and I drove over the Potomac River from Shepherdstown, WV. Once over the Rumsey Bridge, look for the sharp right after the Welcome to Maryland sign and the Maryland Civil War Trail sign (You are on Shepherdstown Pike). Turn right onto Canal Road (deeply named) and head downhill. At the bottom, there’s a small parking lot with a couple of handicap spots and a few regular spots. It is not a large lot. Since it was midweek and early, a spot was waiting for us. If you go and there are none, stay on Canal Road; a quarter mile down the road is a much larger parking lot. Do NOT park on the side of the road. It’s not allowed, and the road is colonial in design (narrow).
This is Lock 38, named after Shepherdstown, the oldest town in West Virginia and across the river. Before the Civil War and 1863, it was in Virginia. The Rumsey Bridge sits high above. A trail leads up to the bridge, and you can walk to the historic part of town in ¾ of a mile, passing Shepherd University. Another trail branches off and connects to Ferry Hill Plantation, another National Park unit.

Cross a wooden bridge to reach the trail, then turn right. In front of you are 4 interpretive signs, including a Maryland Civil War Trails sign.
The trail here is wide as you walk under the bridge and continue on.

Fall is here on the Potomac River, but full color hasn’t hit yet; it is lower in elevation.
You pass a mile marker for mile 73 near the start.

The yellow leaves were very pretty.

The trail narrows in this section, with the canal and river both dropping off, leaving you walking elevated.

Kirk used to ride this trail on his bike. He told me to look up at the rock walls we walked under. The rock walls are magnificent, with random caves sprinkled on them. The walls also blocked the sun, keeping it cooler.

We approached Lock 39.
Around here, you pass mile 74 on the trail.

Lock 39.

I was intrigued by whatever in the name of a troll tunnel was over there… but not enough to climb down. I rarely go off trail here in the East. Poison Ivy seems to exist everywhere, as do ticks. Yuck to both.

We were only doing a short hike, so we turned around here and enjoyed the walk back. Around the lock, the riverbed is wider, with an even lower shelf.

I noticed the river looked better downstream.

I could also see the rock walls better on the way back and noticed more caves.
Once we got back to Lock 38, we decided to walk a bit more and went to the lower parking lot.

Labeled “River Lock,” this goes out to the river.

These are the old railroad bridge piers from the first railroad bridge here.
Historically? Before there were bridges, Ferry Hill Plantation ran a ferry across the river. A male slave operated it day and night. Ferry Hill is worth the visit; though it is a small area, it is rich in history.

The trail goes under the modern bridge. This rail line goes behind where I lived, howling as it leaves the Shenandoah Valley and Appalachia. It goes through the outskirts of Shepherdstown and crosses the river high up.
A short distance later, we reached the footbridge over the canal to the lower parking lot and turned back.
We did 3 miles. Not a huge day, but a good one.

My app says we hiked through the river for half the hike. Hahahaha.
But hey, free parking and a smooth trail. That can make a good day.
~Sarah